Appendix: Orléans

A favorite stop was Orléans, where we frequented (whenever we could) the Auberge St-Jacques, an ancient inn just down this street; it served the most delectable escargots drenched in a bright-green shallot-and-garlic-butter. Not to mention (well, OK, I will) their médaillons de marcassin (baby wild boar) à la crème de marrons.

Madame the Proprietor supervised the bustle from her position behind a raised podium. We remembered her, years later, when we watched Mama Berkowitz exercise similar generalship at Legal Sea Foods in Inman Square, Cambridge.